IC-NRLF 


SB    E5    312 


HREE  KUNS 

IN  THE-* 


D1RONDACKS 


. 


THREE   RUNS 
IN   THE   ADIRONDACKS 

AND 

ONE   IN  CANADA 


BY 


J.  H.  HUNT,  M.D. 
ii 


G.   P.   PUTNAM'S    SONS 

NEW  YORK  LONDON 

27    WEST  TWENTY-THIRD    STREET  24  BEDFORD    STREET,  STRAND 

&jje  |utickerbocher  $ress 
1892 


Electrotyped,  Printed,  and  Bound  by 

Ube  TRnicfeerbocfcer  ipress,  IRew  lt?orfc 
G.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS 


H? 


CONTENTS. 


PREFACE       .  .         .    .      . 

IN  THE    ADIRONDACKS,   1884 

\ 

IN  ^HE  ADIRONDACKS,  1886 
IN  7HE  ADIRONDACKS,  1887 
IN  CVNADA,  1891 


PAGE 

vii 


21 

47 
67 


M852835 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGZ 

SMITH  LAKE,  ADIRONDACKS  .  .  Frontispiece 

BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKE,  FROM  MERWIN'S      ..,.„.         3 

CHARLEY  POND,  ADIRONDACKS 7 

SMITH  LAKE  FROM  CHARLEY  POND  CARRY 13 

MARYLAND  CAMP,  ALBANY  LAKE,  ADIRONDACKS   .         .  ,22 

AT  MARYLAND  CAMP  .....  29 

LOST    .  .  35 

PLINY  ROBBINS 37 

BOG  RIVER,  NEAR  LITTLE  TUPPER  LAKE,  ADIRONDACKS  .  .  41 
DROWNED  LANDS,  RAQUETTE  RIVER,  ADIRONDACKS  ...  43 
PLINY  ROBBINS',  LITTLE  TUPPER  LAKE,  ADIRONDACKS  .  .  .  48 
SWEENEY  CARRY,  RAQUETTE  RIVER,  ADIRONDACKS  ,  .  -  51 
CUT-OFF  AT  Bic-Ox  Bow,  RAQUETTE  RIVER,  ADIRONDACKS  55 

LA  MONT'S,  SMITH  LAKE,  ADIRONDACKS      ..'..,  rg 

IRON  ISLAND,  FRONT  LAKE .08 

AT  DINNER,  IRON  ISLAND     ....  ,  -73 

A  SUCCESSFUL  HUNTING-PARTY 85 

SLEEPING  QUARTERS,  IRON  ISLAND        .  89 


PREFACE. 


A  S  a  health  measure  it  is  desirable,  indeed,  aim 
**  essential,  that  those  who  are  actively  engaged 
in  business  should  set  aside  a  portion  of  each  year 
for  rest  and  recuperation.  Occasional  periods  of 
absolute  freedom  from  the  cares  of  business,  the 
responsibilities  of  professional  life,  or  the  grind  of 
whatever  vocation  one  may  have,  surely  not  only 
conduces  to  health,  but  it  prepares  one  for  greater 
exertion  and  more  assiduous  labor  when  the  vaca- 
tion is  over.  More  than  this,  the  mere  looking 
forward  to  the  enjoyment  of  a  yearly  summer  out- 
ing stimulates  one  to  endeavor  during  the  year  and 
the  doing  of  better  work.  In  saying  this  I  do  not 
refer  to  men  alone,  but  to  women,  who  are  as  much 
or  even  more  entitled  to  these  periods  of  rest  and 
cessation  from  labor  ;  and  a  playtime  is  just  as 
necessary  for  their  preservation  as  it  is  for  men's. 


ost 


viii  preface. 


The  object  of  these  sketches  is  not  only  to  advo- 
cate a  yearly  vacation  for  both  sexes.  It  is  also  to 
advise  that  the  outing  should  not  be  spent  at  New- 
port, Long  Branch,  Asbury  Park,  or  other  seaside 
resorts,  but  in  the  mountains,  at  some  point  as  far 
removed  from  civilization  as  the  tourist  can  reach. 

For  people  of  this  vicinity  the  woods  of  Canada, 
Maine,  or  the  Adirondacks  offer  suitable  locations. 
The  attractions  of  the  splendid  hotels  always  to 
be  found  at  the  outskirts  of  these  places  should  be 
resisted,  and  only  the  interior  of  remote  parts  of 
the  woods  selected.  Here  you  will  find  nature  as 
God  made  it.  You  will  find  the  primeval  forest 
with  all  its  fascinations.  The  air  is  laden  with 
purity  and  freshness  ;  the  trout  and  deer  are  unsus- 
pecting. The  petty  annoyance  of  hard  couches  at 
night  may  be  removed  by  providing  an  air-mattress 
and  pillow.  The  occasional  molestation  of  mos- 
quitoes, deer  flies,  and  punkies  may  be  overcome 
by  the  smudge  ;  the  latter,  it  is  true,  produces  on  the 
female  complexion  a  delightful  sooty  appearance, 
but  this  wears  off  in  time,  leaving  an  enviable,  health- 
ful appearance  obtainable  in  no  other  way.  On 
returning,  the  little  hardships  of  such  an  outing 
are  laughed  over  together  with  one's  friends,  or 


preface.  ix 


soon  forgotten,  but  the  novelty  will  never  be  for- 
gotten ;  the  healthful  glow  and  robust  constitution 
obtained  will  last  until  the  next  vacation,  at  which 
time  the  trip  will  be  undertaken  again.  Such  an 
outing  is  the  best  of  all  tonics,  whether  for  the 
weary  body  or  the  anxious  mind. 


WE  were  prompt 
in  arriving  at 
the  pier  of  the  Albany 
boat  in  New  York,  on 
July  14,  1884.  Our 
party  was  bound  for  a 

month's  camping  at  Smith's  Lake,  in  the  heart  of 
the  Adirondacks ;  but  were  we  on  a  boat-landing, 
or  in  a  well-stocked  grocery  establishment  ?  Bar- 
rels and  boxes  of  provisions,  pack-baskets,  rifles 
and  rods  piled  up  in  vast  heaps,  and  all  the  clutter 
of  camp-life  were  here  ;  and  our  little  company, 
full  of  enthusiasm,  with  the  prospect  of  escaping 
for  a  brief  time  the  cares  of  business,  made  an 
envious  picture  for  the  ordinary  tourist.  It  was 
evident  "to  the  universe,"  as  the  French  say,  that 
the  party  was  let  loose  for  a  good  time. 

The  sail  up  the  Hudson,  the  Rhine  of  America, 
was  most  enjoyable  ;  when  the  call  for  "  all  lights 
out "  came,  our  berths  were  claimed,  and  soon 
jnore  than  one  member  of  our  party  was  dreaming 


1Tn  tbe  Hfcironbacfcs,  1884. 


not  very  well-outlined  dreams  of  camp-life ;  for 
none  of  us  had  as  yet  ever  enjoyed  the  experience. 

Arriving  at  Albany,  and  later  by  rail  at  Saratoga, 
we  boarded  one  of  the  trains  of  the  Adirondack 
Railway  for  North  Creek.  A  long,  tedious  ride 
found  us  finally  at  the  terminus  of  our  railway 
journey.  Here  it  was  gratifying  to  find  that  the 
arrangements  previously  made  for  buckboards  to 
convey  us  from  North  Creek  to  Blue  Mountain 
Creek  had  not  failed.  After  loading  bag  and  bag- 
gage, the  sharp  crack  of  the  driver's  whip  started 
us  off  for  Eldridge,  five  miles  distant,  where  we 
were  to  take  supper  and  spend  the  night.  Good 
appetites  and  a  sound  sleep  prepared  us  for  a  twenty- 
five  mile  drive,  on  the  following  morning,  through 
the  wilderness.  Nature  arrayed  in  the  bright  foliage 
of  midsummer,  the  air  redolent  with  pine  odors, 
the  sun  beaming  warmly,  good  roads,  a  party  in 
perfect  sympathy  with  one  another ;  these  things 
would  make  any  expedition  one  of  pleasure  and 
satisfaction. 

At  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  at  the  hospitable  board 
of  Landlord  Merwin,  we  for  the  first  time  made  the 
acquaintance  of  a  new  article  of  diet  named  "  moun- 
tain sheep  "  (venison). 


flu  tbe  Bbiron&acfes,  1884, 


Blue  Mountain  Lake  is  a  large  sheet  of  water 
picturesquely  dotted  with  islands  and  surrounded 
by  a  forest.  Blue  Mountain  rises  from  the  shore, 
rearing  its  lofty  head  1,962  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  lake,  and  nearly  3,762  feet  above  tide  level.  A 
fashionable  hotel  is  located  on  the  west  shore,  and 
here  we  met  friends,  one  of  whom  had  caught  a  lake 
trout  weighing  twenty-two  pounds.  But  even  such 
fair  promises  of  fishing  could  not  deter  us  from  con- 
tinuing our  journey.  Taking  the  little  steamer,  we 
enjoyed  the  sail  through  Blue  Mountain,  Eagle  and 
Utowana  lakes,  and  then  up  the  exceedingly  tor- 
tuous Marion  River.  Here  an  exchange  of  steamers 
being  made,  we  finally  entered  the  beautiful 
Raquette  Lake.  Landing  at  its  inlet  at  the  upper 
end,  we  were  met  at  the  wharf  by  our  guides  with 
their  boats.  We  crossed  a  good  carry  of  one-quar- 
ter of  a  mile,  and  dined  at  Fletcher's,  an  hotel 
situated  at  the  head  of  Forked  Lake,  after  which 
we  loaded  our  boats  with  what  the  guides  are  pleased 
to  call  our  "  duffle."  The  last  stage  of  our  long 
and  varied  journey  was  made  under  their  direction, 
and  in  their  light  but  capacious  boats.  We  were 
certainly  very  fortunate  in  securing  the  services  of 
three  such  good  guides.  John  Plumbley  was  a 


Un  tbe  HMroufcacfes,  1884, 


stoutly-built  man  past  middle  age,  with  a  full  beard, 
and  of  a  rather  quiet  disposition.  He  had  been 
already  immortalized  through  the  writings  of 
"  Adirondack  Murray,"  and  came  to  act  as  our  chef. 
Lorenzo  Towns,  tall  and  spare,  was  energy  per- 
sonified, a  better  hunter  than  fisherman  ;  Cal 
Towns,  a  beardless  young  fellow,  though  unac- 
quainted with  the  locality  we  were  to  visit,  yet 
always  showed  himself  willing  and  efficient.  He 
was  the  son-in-law  of  the  old  Indian  guide,  Mitchel 
Sebattis.  Our  first  experience  in  sleeping  in  the 
woods  at  night  was  on  a  high  bluff  on  the  west 
shore  of  Bottle  Pond.  The  building  of  our  lean-to 
was  engaged  in  by  both  novice  and  guide.  Two  sap- 
lings were  cut  ten  feet  in  length,  forked  at  one  end 
and  driven  into  the  ground.  Two  long  sticks  were 
then  placed  in  position,  one  end  laid  on  the  ground, 
and  the  other  resting  in  the  crotch  of  the  upright 
poles.  The  roof  was  made  of  transverse  pieces  of  sap- 
lings, covered  with  bark  and  finally  with  canvas.  Last, 
the  floor  was  completed  with  balsam  boughs,  and  a 
large  fire  built  before  our  temporary  camp  made 
the  tempestuous  night  as  comfortable  as  possible. 

Early  in  the  evening  John  Plumbley  had  descried 
a  deer  at  the  outlet,  but  on  our  reaching  the  spot 


1Tn  tbe  HMronfcacfes,  1884* 


it  vanished,  and  nothing  was  seen  or  heard  save  a 
screeching  loon.  Starting  early  the  next  morning 
we  continued  our  journey,  passing  over  Dead  Man's 
Carry,  and  going  into  camp  at  Rock  Pond  for  the 
second  night.  Continuing  our  journey,  we  fol- 
lowed a  romantic  feeder  to  Little  Tupper  Lake. 
Crossing  over  the  head  of  this  water,  and  arriving 
at  the  west  shore  of  Charley  Pond,  we  halted  for  a 
dinner.  We  dined  off  "  chicken  ragout,"  a  compound 
of  stewed  canned  chicken  and  potatoes,  remembered 
evermore  as  a  dish  of  the  gods.  A  carry  of  two 
miles  only  remained  between  Charley  Pond  and 
Smith's  Lake,  our  destination.  H.  and  Lorenzo 
decided  to  remain  at  the  pond  for  afternoon  hunt- 
ing and  fishing,  and  if  unsuccessful  in  hunting 
during  the  early  evening,  to  hunt  at  night  by  means 
of  a  jack.  The  rest  proceeded  to  Smith  Lake  to 
select  a  camping-place  and  erect  our  habitation. 

Immediately  after  the  departure  of  my  friends, 
a  visit  was  made  to  a  spring-hole,  where  the  pun- 
kies  were  much  more  numerous  than  the  trout. 
Trout  were  secured  for  our  needs,  but  before  we 
could  catch  enough  for  the  whole  party,  we  were 
obliged  to  abandon  the  field  because  of  the  exas- 
perating bites  of  flies.  A  horde  of  invisible  but 


io  irn  tbe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1884, 


persistent  insects  appeared  to  be  stationed  at  the 
spring  hole  for  the  express  purpose  of  guarding 
the  fish  from  intruders.  Darkness  coming  on,  we 
cooked  some  of  our  trout  on  a  spit  over  our  camp 
fire,  and  added  excellent  coffee  to  the  repast. 
Selecting  a  camping-place  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
pond,  we  collected  firewood,  and  waited  until  ten 
o'clock  for  starting  out  jack-shooting. 

The  sky  was  cloudy,  with  occasional  falls  of  light 
rain.  An  owl  near  by  screeched  hideously,  and 
was  answered  in  like  manner  by  more  or  less  dis- 
tant acquaintances.  The  boat  being  finally  lowered 
into  the  water,  we  assumed  a  cramped  position  in 
the  bow,  provided  with  a  lantern  which  could  be 
adjusted  to  the  head,  and  with  rifle  within  easy 
reach.  The  guide  in  the  stern  began  to  paddle. 
Every  plunge  of  a  frightened  musk-rat,  every  un- 
usual mysterious  sound,  was  construed  by  the 
"  fresh  "  hunter  as  an  indication  of  the  presence  of 
a  deer  ;  but  the  guide,  unmindful  of  hist  !  hark  !  or 
similar  ejaculations,  continued  his  noiseless  way. 

Suddenly  the  boat  was  felt  to  change  its  direc- 
tion, a  command  was  given  to  "  get  ready,"  and  soon 
the  form  of  a  deer  loomed  out  of  the  darkness. 
A  quick  shot  !  The  boat  came  alongside  of  a 


1Tn  tbe  HMronfcacfes,  1884, 


wounded  deer.  It  was  taken  to  shore  and  speed- 
ily dressed.  Then  did  we  repair  to  our  tent,  which 
consisted  of  a  boat  turned  partially  over  to  afford 
protection  to  the  head.  A  rubber  blanket  spread 
on  the  ground  before  a  rousing  camp-fire  formed 
our  bed  ;  and  here,  undisturbed  by  pride  in  our 
prowess,  we  slept  until  morning.  Although  it 
rained  throughout  the  night,  we  were  so  well  pro- 
tected by  massive  pines  and  hemlocks  that  nothing 
untoward  developed  as  the  result  of  our  exposure. 
But  I  learned  one  thing  during  this  my  first  ex- 
perience with  an  Adirondack  guide,  which  I  will 
hand  on  for  the  benefit  of  others  :  namely,  not  to 
allow  him  to  drink  whiskey  from  a  bottle  ! 

Crossing  a  long  two-mile  carry  next  morning, 
loaded  as  we  were  with  pack-baskets,  a  boat,  and  a 
good-sized  deer,  we  were  glad  to  stop  at  a  cool 
spring  at  the  middle  of  the  carry.  This  spring  is 
indicated  by  a  pole  extending  across  the  path  from 
one  tree  to  another,  six  or  eight  feet  from  the 
ground,  which  also  serves  the  purpose  of  a  rest  for 
the  boat.  We  finally  saw  the  glimmer  of  Smith's 
Lake  through  the  trees,  and  were  soon  after  on  the 
sandy  beach,  with  the  delightful  vision  of  a  stretch 
of  eight  miles  of  water,  the  only  sign  of  habitation 


1Fn  tbe  Hfcironfcacfcs,  1884* 


being1  a  tiny  speck  in  the  distance — the  ranch  of 
the  huntsman  Edwards. 

A  cold  rivulet  emptying  into  the  lake  was  visited, 
and  after  refreshing  ourselves,  we  set  out  in  our 
boat  to  find  the  camp  our  friends  had  established. 
We  found  it  located  on  a  delightful  point,  almost 
an  island,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  lake.  The  white 
tents,  well-shaded  by  pines,  made  a  peculiarly 
attractive  scene. 

Our  hearty  welcome  was  due,  at  least  partially, 
to  our  good  fortune  in  securing  enough  to  drive 
away  the  wolf  from  the  door.  We  found  him 
howling  lustily  !  Plumbley  had  improvised  a 
kitchen  and  preparations  were  making  for  dinner. 
Quickly  the  delicious  odor  of  tenderloin  steak  per- 
vaded the  air,  also  of  biscuits  arranged  in  a  peculiarly- 
contrived  tin,  and  actually  roasted  before  the  fire. 
Shortly  there  was  rejoicing  in  that  camp,  and  if 
any  grace  was  said  it  must  have  been,  "  Thank  God 
that  we  are  alive  ! " 

A  fire,  provided  with  logs  of  such  huge  dimen- 
sions that  it  would  seem  the  consuming  element 
could  never  consume  them,  was  built  in  front  of 
the  camp.  After  supper  Plumbey  proposed  to  the 
successful  hunter  a  row  and  a  cast  at  a  favorite 


Hn  tbe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1884,  15 


spring-hole.  In  approaching  the  end  of  Smith  Lake 
Carry  the  unlooked-for  apparition  of  a  sportsman 
with  his  guide  arose.  They  had  just  emerged  from 
the  depths  of  the  woods,  and  were  not  less  sur- 
prised than  we  to  see  signs  of  higher  animal  life. 
On  approaching  more  closely,  we  recognized  in  the 
sportsman  an  old  classmate.  This  was  pleasant, 
but  old  associations  could  not  hold  us  long  in  the 
presence  of  these  delightful  new  experiences  ;  a  fly 
was  dropped  in  the  water,  and  immediately  taken 
possession  of  by  an  enormous  trout.  After  a  long 
struggle,  and  with  the  aid  of  excited  advice  from 
our  friend  on  shore,  the  fish  was  finally  captured,  but 
alas !  at  the  price  of  the  tip  of  our  pole.  Fickle  success 
departed,  and  after  extending  a  formal  invitation 
to  our  friend  for  a  future  dinner,  we  departed  also. 
Our  first  night  in  camp  was  not  all  that  could  be 
desired  from  a  sleeping  point  of  view.  The  early 
evening  had  passed  delightfully  around  the  mighty 
camp  fire,  reciting  our  adventures,  telling  stones, 
and  enjoying  the  aroma  of  Newark  tobacco.  The 
charm  was  not,  however,  without  compensation  in 
the  onslaught  of  the  desperate  punky,  and  finally  it 
was  agreed  that  we  "  turn  in."  Soon  we  formed  a 
"  lovely  even  row,"  enjoying  the  soft  glow  of  the 


1 6  1Fn  tbe  Hfcironfcacfcs,  1884. 

camp  fire,  and  resting  luxuriously  upon  our  beds  of 
boughs.  Presently  a  misguided  member  of  the 
party  made  reference  to  Whitman  as  the  greatest 
poet  this  country  had  yet  produced,  and  to 
strengthen  his  assertion  he  recited  a  so-called 
stanza,  three  quarters  prose  and  the  rest — verse  ? 
Another  immediately  set  up  Longfellow  in  oppo- 
sition, and  quoted  a  mellifluous  poem  of  consider- 
able length,  to  prove  himself  correct.  A  third, 
who  evidently  had  more  of  the  spirit  of  argument 
than  of  sleep  about  him,  advocated  fiercely  the 
rights  of  Whittier,  and  declaimed  pages  and  pages 
in  defence  of  his  position.  Then  did  the  three 
hunters  who  had  no  poetical  bias  whatever  arise 
in  a  body,  and  seek  a  haven  about  the  genial  fire, 
lighting  their  strongest  Havanas.  They  politely 
alleged  a  trivial  excuse  for  deserting  the  comfortable 
boughs  ;  but  thereafter  it  was  observed  that  poets 
were  ignored  when  bedtime  came. 

As  day  followed  day,  camp  matters  arranged 
themselves  so  that  each  individual  camper  might 
enjoy  whatever  best  suited  his  tastes  or  inclination. 
If  one  wished  to  go  into  the  depths  of  the  forest  to 
study  primeval  nature  he  could  do  so  ;  if  he  was 
wise  enough  to  take  a  guide  along  his  knowledge 


In  tbe  BMronfcacfes,  1884.  17 


of  woodcraft  would  be  materially  advanced.  An- 
other would  perhaps  choose  to  spend  a  solitary  day 
at  Single  Shanty  stream,  where  a  good  capture  of 
trout  always  rewarded  his  efforts,  and  he  was 
well-pleased  when  those  not  piscatorially  inclined 
enjoyed  at  meal-time  the  fruits  of  his  toil.  Still 
another  might  frequent  Bog  Lake,  where  deer  were 
plenty. 

One  day  it  was  arranged  that  H.  and  his  guide 
should  visit  this  spot  for  an  afternoon  of  hunting. 
Deer  were  known  to  frequent  the  margin  of  these 
remote  lakes  in  early  morning,  in  the  afternoon,  and 
during  the  night.  In  fact  they  often  appeared  at 
our  own  lake,  and  it  was  amusing  to  observe  the 
actions  of  our  guides  when  they  went  down  to  the 
water's  edge  to  wash.  They  always  first  made  a 
careful  survey  of  the  lake,  their  eyes  following  its 
margin  as  far  as  vision  could  reach.  When  per- 
fectly satisfied  of  the  absence  of  animal  life,  face 
and  hands  might  be  attended  to — but  not  before  ! 

Starting  after  dinner  for  Bog  Lake,  we  passed 
through  the  inlet,  arrived  at  Harrington  Pond, 
made  the  long  carry  to  Clear  Pond,  in  the  centre 
of  which  pretty  sheet  of  water  we  rested  with 
motionless  oars.  Presently  we  were  startled  by 


is  1Fn  tbe  HMronfcacfes,  1884, 


volumes  of  sound,  resembling  the  sharp  fire  of 
infantry.  The  guide  explained  that  a  large  tree 
had  fallen.  Waiting  awhile  we  crossed  another 
carry  to  Bog  Lake.  Arriving  there,  two  deer  were 
seen  feeding  at  the  water's  edge.  The  boat  was 
cautiously  placed  in  the  water,  and  wre  began  pad- 
dling toward  them.  One,  taking  the  alarm,  disap- 
peared in  the  woods  ;  the  other,  fleeing  in  a  different 
direction,  was  followed  by  an  ineffectual  shot.  This 
was  exasperating,  but  hunters  must  be  patient. 
Going  to  an  old  deserted  bark  camp,  and  gathering 
firewood  for  the  night,  we  returned  to  Clear  Pond, 
still  hoping  for  an  afternoon  shot  at  that  place. 
Returning  disappointed  to  Bog  Lake,  we  were 
gratified  at  seeing  three  deer,  a  large  buck  and  two 
does.  Advancing  upon  them  as  before,  one  of  the 
does  disappeared,  but  we  were  enabled  to  obtain 
five  shots  at  the  remaining  doe,  after  which  she 
walked  off  in  the  brush  out  of  view.  At  this  junc- 
ture, the  buck  appeared  on  the  grassy  bank,  with 
legs  apart,  and  looking  at  us  with  amazement. 
Two  shots  were  hastily  fired,  the  last  one  "  down- 
ing "  him.  We  secured  and  dressed  our  prize,  and 
in  the  morning  returned  triumphantly  to  Smith 
Lake,  carrying  with  us  a  venison  breakfast. 


1fn  tbe  Hfcironfcacks,  1884,  19 


But  all  things  bright — vacations  included — must 
come  to  an  end.  We  decided  not  to  spend  the 
close  of  our  vacation  in  camp  ;  the  last  night  of 
a  fortnight's  pleasure  should  be  passed  at 
"  Edwards'." 

On  the  last  morning  we  started  homeward,  re- 
tracing our  steps  over  the  Charley  Pond  Carry, 
crossing  the  pond,  and  entering  the  long  Little 
Tupper  Inlet,  and  stopping  at  Pliny  Robbins'  for 
dinner.  Proceeding  on  our  way  across  numerous 
carries  of  various  lengths,  sailing  over  innumerable 
little  lakes  and  ponds,  we  at  last  emerged  from  the 
gloomy  woods,  and  viewed  from  a  height  the  home 
of  our  guides,  Long  Lake.  The  lake  was  ablaze 
with  the  afternoon  sun.  A  slight  breeze  stirred 
its  surface,  the  waves  scintillated  with  alternate 
hues  of  gold  and  silver.  Mount  Marcy  rose  pale 
in  the  distance,  while  the  nearer  peaks  were  warm 
and  strong-colored  in  the  sunshine.  Anxious  as 
we  were  to  reach  the  hospitable  Kellogg  House  at 
Long  Lake,  and  to  procure  rest  and  refreshment 
from  our  long  journey,  we  yet  lingered,  enjoying 
the  fascinating  scene  at  our  feet.  The  next  night 
brought  us  up  again  at  Merwin's.  In  the  evening, 
having  donned  the  garments  of  civilization,  we 


20  1Tn  tbe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1884. 


visited  the  Blue  Mountain  House,  meeting  friends 
there,  with  whom  an  arrangement  was  made  to 
ascend  Blue  Mountain  on  the  following  day. 

We  could  not  help  contemplating  our  visit  to 
the  woods  with  satisfaction.  We  were  returning 
with  renewed  health  and  vigor,  with  hardened 
muscles,  faces  browned,  and  with  keen  appetites, 
— oh,  ye  gods,  what  appetites  !  The  memory  of 
our  hardships,  of  pathless  ways  pursued  through 
well-nigh  impenetrable  forests,  was  now  almost  as 
sweet  as  the  delight  of  at  last  seeing  through  the 
trees  the  silvery  gleam  of  a  lake.  Even  the  pas- 
sage of  the  carries,  crawling  heavily  laden  over 
slippery  roots  or  obstructing  logs,  was  enjoyed 
because  of  the  refuge  from  the  heat  of  a  mid-day 
sun,  the  absence  of  tormenting  flies,  and  the  cool 
and  delicious  water  to  be  found  at  springs  by  the 
wayside.  Our  catches,  too,  of  fish  and  flesh  were 
not  the  least  source  of  pleasure  to  us,  in  reviewing 
our  first  run  in  the  Adirondacks. 


tfWj: 


T 


H  E  meeting- 
place  was  at 
the  Lake  Shore 
Railway  Station  in 
Newburg,  and  we 
were  bound  for  an 
outing  at  "  Mary- 
land Camp"  on 
Albany  Lake.  A 
jolly  lot  were  we, 
all  bent  on  rest, 
recuperation,  and  fun.  We  counted  one  absentee, 
who,  we  felt  sure,  would  join  us  later.  The  sound 
ones  of  the  party  had  in  charge  an  invalid,  for  whom 
the  initial  D.  may  stand.  Perhaps  the  most  robust 
hunter  among  us  was  a  member  of  the  legal  pro- 
fession. His  slap  on  the  back  would  send  a  thrill  of 
joy  throughout  the  spinal  cord  ;  his  gentle  squeeze 
of  the  hand  recalled  every  attack  of  rheumatism  with 
which  one  might  have  been  afflicted ;  his  hearty  vocal 
salutation  would  almost  break  the  tympanum  mem- 
brane of  the  average  man.  The  redoubtable  and 

23 


24  fin  tbe  HMronfcacfes,  1886. 


genial  lawyer  was  possessed  of  a  fishing-rod  which 
served  the  double  purpose  of  a  cane  and  also  a  most 
exquisitely  poised  fly-rod.  For  the  rest,  there  was 
a  Standard  Oil  man  who  occasionally  poured  petro- 
leum on  troubled  waters ;  an  insurance  superinten- 
dent who  would  not  take  a  risk  on  any  of  our  lives; 
a  doctor,  ready  at  all  times,  from  the  very  nature  of 
his  self-sacrificing  profession,  to  risk  his  life  by  fish- 
ing from  fragile  boats,  or  incurring  the  dangers  of 
jack-shooting,  for  the  mere  purpose  of  securing  fish 
and  game  for  the  others. 

At  Lowville,  where  the  night  was  spent,  one  fel- 
low sat  up  writing  long  after  the  others  had  retired, 
and  upon  him  was  the  practical  joke  perpetrated 
of  putting  a  trunk  in  his  bed,  and  covering  it  with 
many  layers  of  blankets.  When  at  last  the  tardy 
sportsman  sought  his  couch,  he  naturally  assumed 
that  the  invalid  had  had  "  another  chill,"  and  ex- 
pressing sympathy,  secured  another  room.  These 
annals  would  not  be  complete  were  it  not  set  down 
that  his  companions,  who  were  in  hiding,  experienced 
as  much  amusement  as  if  they  had  been  school-boys 
instead  of  "grave  and  reverend  seigniors." 

Buckboards  were  procured  in  the  morning,  and 
the  long  drive  to  Dunbar's  began.  First  the  road 
was  sandy  for  some  distance;  then  it  promised  better 


11  n  tbe  HMronfcacfes,  1886*  25 


behavior,  but  afterwards  developed  into  one  of  the 
most  execrable  roads  in  the  Adirondacks.  Before 
we  reached  Dunbar's,  the  gloom  of  the  night,  added 
to  the  shade  of  massive  trees,  made  it  impossible  for 
us  to  discern  our  way.  Our  special  photographer 
produced  a  diminutive  lantern  emitting  a  tiny  ray 
of  red  light,  and  by  this  we  were  enabled  to  keep 
the  road.  With  a  single  exception,  I  should  say. 
Once  we  diverged  slightly  from  the  trail,  and  coming 
to  a  standstill  found  one  of  the  horses  perched  on 
a  tall  stump.  The  poor  animal  groaned  as  if  suffer- 
ing with  pain.  We  managed  to  extricate  him  from 
this  predicament,  and  made  our  way  still  more 
cautiously.  Dunbar's  Hotel,  or,  more  properly 
speaking,  "  Hunter's  Ranch,"  is  situated  on  Beaver 
River.  In  the  morning  we  found  our  guides  with 
their  boats  in  the  river,  ready  to  convey  us  up 
stream.  The  river  is  of  considerable  size  and  full 
of  trout,  some  of  which  were  readily  caught,  merely 
by  allowing  our  flies  to  trail  behind  the  boats.  At 
a  certain  point  on  the  stream  we  found  the  trail 
leading  to  the  Red  Horse  Chain  of  lakes.  Here 
we  decided  to  separate,  some  of  the  party  going  to 
visit  the  lakes,  the  others  to  proceed  to  Albany 
Lake.  A  short  carry  brought  us  to  the  first  of  the 
beautiful  group  known  as  the  Red  Horse  Chain. 


26  flu  tbe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1886. 


Salmon  Lake  is  several  miles  in  length.  At  the 
time  we  visited  it,  it  had  on  the  west  shore  a  tem- 
porarily-deserted log-cabin.  This  cabin  was  securely 
locked,  the  owners  having  not  yet  returned  for  the 
summer  outing ;  but  as  a  heavy  rain  began  falling, 
we  determined  to  pick  the  lock  (which  one  of  our 
guides  found  no  difficulty  in  doing)  and  to  spend 
the  night  there.  All  the  comforts  and  conveniences 
of  camp-life  were  found  stored  within  the  cabin, 
and  except  for  the  rats,  who  seem  to  have  had  a 
claim  on  the  premises,  we  might  have  passed  a 
comfortable  night.  Early  in  the  morning,  every- 
thing in  the  cabin  having  been  arranged  as  we  found 
it,  and  fastening  on  the  door  an  explanation  of,  and 
an  apology  for  the  intrusion,  we  proceeded  to  visit 
the  remaining  lakes,  stopping  to  fish  when  a  favor- 
able fishing-place  offered.  We  finally  selected  a 
camping-place  on  the  uppermost  lake  of  the  chain, 
and  all  hands  gave  assistance  in  erecting  a  com- 
fortable lean-to,  and  in  collecting  the  fragrant 
balsam  boughs  which  were  to  serve  us  as  temporary 
shelter  and  to  afford  us  an  easy  couch.  A  storm 
was  brewing,  and  lurid  flashes  of  lightning  were  now 
and  then  to  be  seen  on  the  southeastern  horizon. 
Ominous  sound  of  thunder  rolled  and  reverberated 


fltt  tbe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1886.  27 


among  the  forest-clad  hills.  Our  camp  had  been 
pitched  on  an  elevated  plateau,  and  so  we  further 
protected  it  by  digging  around  it  a  trench  which 
might  protect  us  from  the  flood  with  which  we  were 
threatened.  Our  habitation  made  ready,  one  of 
the  party  went  down  to  the  lake,  where,  discovering 
a  fine  deer  on  the  shore  near  by,  and  not  wishing 
to  lose  time  in  notifying  the  guide,  though  encum- 
bered with  paddle,  boat,  and  rifle,  he  made  an  effort 
to  get  near  enough  to  deliver  a  shot.  He  had 
approached  cautiously,  within  easy  range,  and  was 
finally  exchanging  paddle  for  rifle,  when  the  deer, 
at  this  critical  moment,  bounded  off.  He  had  been 
startled  by  the  unwonted  sound  of  an  axe,  made 
by  the  guide  who  was  preparing  wood  for  the  camp- 
fire.  The  same  thing  happened  again,  to  the 
chagrin  of  our  sportsman,  both  deer  having  been 
startled  at  the  time  when  the  animal  had  been 
approached  with  the  greatest  care,  the  rifle  brought 
to  bear,  and  deadly  aim  secured. 

The  heavy  shower  with  which  we  had  been 
threatened  had  passed  by.  When  the  sun  beamed 
from  the  western  horizon  the  birds  began  their 
evening  carol,  and  the  forest,  as  if  upon  a  given 
signal,  began  pouring  out  wood  sounds  in  a 


23  flu  tbe  Bfcironfcacfes,  1886, 

chant  of   praise  for  the  happy  deliverance    from 
storm. 

Retracing  our  steps  next  morning,  we  again 
appeared  on  Beaver  River  at  the  point  we  had  left 
it,  and  passed  on  to  Muncie's.  Here  our  friends, 
who  had  halted  there  because  of  the  storm,  were 
disporting  themselves  in  their  nether  garments, 
trying  to  dry  before  a  huge  fire  their  water-soaked 
outer  clothing.  At  this  point  our  belated  friend 
joined  us,  making  our  party  complete,  and  adding 
much  to  the  prevailing  good  fellowship.  After 
spending  the  night  and  breakfasting  at  Muncie's, 
we  finally  arrived  on  the  shore  of  the  beautiful  and 
romantic  Lake  Albany,  first  passing  through  its 
outlet,  which  was  lined  with  grassy  banks.  Mary- 
land Camp  is  situated  on  the  east  shore  of  the  lake, 
and  is  a  log  building  of  good  size.  It  was  built  in 
1875,  by  a  party  of  Marylanders  who  had  just 
graduated  from  Yale  College,  and  who  spent  seven 
months  here,  beautifying  its  surroundings,  adding 
many  articles  of  comfort, — amongothers,  ingeniously 
contrived  arm-chairs  made  from  willow  and  birch 
saplings.  The  logs  of  the  cabin  are  admirably  fitted 
together,  making  a  snug  habitation  ;  the  roof  being 
covered  with  shingles  hewn  by  hand.  The  interior 


flu  tbe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1 886.  31 


has  all  the  belongings  necessary  to  the  perfect  enjoy- 
ment of  wood  life.  The  walls  are  decorated  with 
original  verses  composed  by  later  occupants  in  eulogy 
of  the  Marylanders,  singing  praise  of  their  generosity 
in  erecting  such  comfortable  quarters.  Much  to 
our  indignation,  an  acquaintance  camping  on  an  ad- 
joining lake,  who  knew  of  our  contemplated  arrival, 
had  killed  for  us  a  deer  on  our  own  shores  ;  also  had 
taken  from  our  spring-hole  more  than  a  hundred 
trout  for  our  use.  These  he  offered  our  guide  who 
had  preceded  us,  but  the  guide,  like  a  man  of  spirit, 
declined  the  gifts  with  resentment,  saying  that  our 
party  could  furnish  themselves  with  game  and  fish. 
Moral :  never  waste  your  generosity  upon  hunters. 
At  supper  we  were  surprised  to  see  the  invalid 
first  at  the  table  and  last  to  leave  it.  He  mani- 
fested an  appetite  which  could  only  be  reduced  by 
a  large  reduction  of  our  supplies.  He  promised  to 
make  amends  for  his  gluttony  by  going  out  jack- 
shooting  that  very  night,  which  promise  he  fulfilled, 
making  quite  an  addition  to  our  larder.  But  it  was 
tough,  tough,  tough.  Looking  down  the  lake  from 
our  camp,  there  was  presented  a  fine  expanse  of 
water,  and  on  the  left,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
numerous  points  of  land  jutted  out.  To  the  right 


32  1fn  tbe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1886, 


lay  a  vast  bay,  separated  from  the  main  body  of 
water  by  a  sharp  headland  heavily  wooded.  Still 
farther  to  the  right,  was  pointed  out  a  large  stream 
flowing  into  the  lake,  which  must  be  followed  to 
reach  Smith's  Lake.  On  the  second  morning  of 
our  arrival  we  concluded  to  explore  this  feeder  or 
inlet,  to  visit  Smith  Lake  again,  and  view  the  scene 
of  our  first  camping  experience.  Landing  at  our 
old  camping-ground,  we  agreed  to  make  the  ascent 
of  Bald  Mountain.  The  view  from  this  peak  well 
repays  one  for  the  labor  of  ascent.  Toward  the 
south  and  northward  the  entire  surface  of  Smith 
and  Albany  Lakes  maybe  seen.  Harrington  Pond, 
Clear  and  Bog  Lakes  are  well  outlined.  These 
silvery  bodies  of  water,  set  in  an  immense  expanse 
of  green  pine  and  hemlock  forest,  woods  yet  un- 
touched by  the  lumberman,  make  a  beautiful  picture. 
Returning  to  Maryland  Camp  in  the  evening, 
one  of  the  sportsmen  resolved  to  try  the  spring- 
hole  near  our  camp.  He  was  rewarded  in  a  few 
moments  by  the  capture  of  many  fine  trout,  aver- 
aging three  quarters  of  a  pound.  The  spring-hole 
consisted  of  a  small  cold  brook  emptying  into  the 
lake,  its  point  of  emergence  from  the  woods  being 
concealed  by  a  dense  mass  of  alders,  which  except 


1fn  tbe  Hbiroufcacfes,  1886.  33 


by  most  careful  abservation  defied  its  detection. 
The  presence  of  some  bright  green  grass,  or  of  the 
spring  plant,  will  sometimes  reveal  to  the  eye  of  a 
practised  guide  or  fisherman  the  presence  of  these 
cold  brooks.  There  are  numerous  so-called  spring- 
holes  at  Albany  Lake,  and  in  fact  in  all  of  the 
Adirondack  lakes.  Some  of  them  are  known  to 
the  guides,  but  many  are  not.  In  long-continued 
periods  of  hot,  dry  weather  the  trout  will  mass 
themselves  at  these  holes,  so  that  one  approaching 
carefully,  under  favorable  conditions  may  see  them 
in  great  shoals,  with  mouths  pointed  toward  the 
stream,  drinking  in  its  supply  of  cold  water.  The 
first  thunder-storm  or  long  downpour  of  rain  will 
disperse  them;  then  they  scatter  themselves  through- 
out the  lake. 

On  a  certain  Sunday  afternoon  of  our  stay  at 
Maryland  Camp,  while  all  were  lounging  about  the 
fire,  looking  wistfully  at  a  small  mound  of  hot  sand, 
in  which  lay  buried  an  iron-bound  pot  containing 
pork  and  beans,  a  delicacy  destined  for  our  supper, 
somebody  discovered  a  large  buck  at  the  spring- 
hole.  A  hunter  immediately  started  in  pursuit, 
but  the  deer  getting  off,  it  was  suggested  to  the 
guide  that  a  row  should  be  made  around  the  lake. 


34  ffn  tbe  BMronfcacfes,  1886. 


No  less  than  six  deer  were  observed.  On  Monday, 
at  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  H.  and  his  guide 
Loomis  started  forth,  and  while  still  within  sight 
of  camp,  a  deer  was  seen  feeding  on  lily-pads.  The 
boat,  being  in  the  hands  of  a  "  Long  Lake  "  pad- 
dler,  turned  suddenly  at  right  angles.  Advancing 
cautiously  towards  the  game,  a  shot  was  made  at 
one  hundred  yards.  The  animal  disappeared  in  the 
woods,  and  we  proceeded  down  the  lake.  On 
turning  the  next  point  a  large  deer  was  outlined. 
Again  a  shot  was  delivered  at  one  hundred  yards. 
This  deer  also  escaped.  The  next  morning  we 
easily  found  both  deer,  but  we  lost  a  young  com- 
panion who  accompanied  us  in  our  search.  Rifle 
shots  fired  from  the  margin  of  the  lake,  owing  to 
the  echo,  only  served  to  mislead  him,  and  it  became 
necessary  to  go  into  the  woods,  where  at  length 
by  repeated  discharges  of  the  rifle,  our  location 
became  known  to  him.  He  did  finally  appear,  but 
in  a  somewhat  dilapidated  condition.  He  always 
afterwards  claimed  that  he  was  not  lost,  but  that 
we  were ;  that  his  location  was  well  known,  while 
our  whereabouts  was  a  mystery. 

On  our  return  we  found  the  camp  deserted,  the 
other  members  of  the  party  having  gone  to  Smith 


IRobbins. 


37 


1Fn  tfoe  HMroufcacfes,  1886,  39 


Lake.  We  tried  our  hand  at  photography  until 
dinner,  and  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the 
boats  were  seen  returning.  They  brought  with 
them  a  long  string  of  trout,  captured  at  Single 
Shanty  stream. 

And  so  passed  the  days  at  Maryland  Camp,  and 
only  too  soon  came  the  time  for  our  journey  home- 
ward. The  return  was  not  wholly  uneventful. 
Passing  through  the  long,  tortuous  Tupper's  Inlet, 
we*  discovered  a  large  buck  close  to  the  bank,  look- 
ing at  us  in  wonderment.  We  did  not  disturb 
him,  nor  blame  him  for  his  amazement.  Our  little 
fleet  of  boats  contained  a  strange-looking  crew, 
capable  of  exciting  the  surprise  even  of  animals. 
The  deer,  after  apparently  satisfying  his  curiosity, 
bounded  off,  and  as  he  went,  the  peculiar  whistle 
indicating  anger  or  fear  could  be  heard. 

Upon  reaching  Pliny  Robbins'  a  pretty  sight 
greeted  us.  As  we  ascended  the  porch  of  the 
hotel,  two  successful  sportsmen  had  just  returned 
from  Bear  Pond,  bringing  with  them  the  antlers 
and  saddle  of  a  fine  buck  and  a  quantity  of  brook 
trout,  some  of  them  two  pounds  in  weight.  One 
of  our  party  who,  because  of  urgent  business,  had 
preceded  us  one  or  two  days,  was  heard  of  at 


40  fn  tbe  HMronbacfes,  1886* 

Robbins'.  This  redoubtable  and  robust  lawyer  had 
given  every  one  at  the  "  ranch  "  a  good  time  during 
his  brief  stay  there,  managing  in  a  few  minutes 
to  become  acquainted  with  the  guests,  who  still 
regretted  the  loss  of  his  genial  companionship. 
Suspicious-looking,  red-labelled  bottles  found  at  the 
wayside,  made  it  easy  for  us  to  follow  his  trail. 

Leaving  Pliny's  we  passed  through  Round  Pond, 
noted  for  its  profusion  of  water-lilies.  Our  boats 
were  transported  by  horse  over  the  carry  to  the 
delightful  Bog  River,  whose  woody  shores  always 
give  promise  of  the  most  exquisite  pleasure  to  those 
who  by  chance  or  preference  seek  her.  The  trees 
on  her  banks,  monsters  of  nature,  stationed  with 
military  precision,  as  if  to  guard  the  queen  of  all 
streams  ;  the  cool  depths  of  her  waters  ;  the  many 
surprises  with  which  the  eye  is  greeted  at  every 
turn  in  her  graceful  course,  and  finally  her  precipi- 
tous leap  into  Big  Tupper  Lake, — all  these  afford 
never-ending  delight  to  the  tourist. 

The  Raquette  is  a  dreary  waste.  The  branches 
of  trees  killed  by  overflow  extend  toward  the  once 
beautiful  stream  their  long  arms,  in  silent  protest 
at  the  wrong  done  to  nature  through  them. 


flu  tbe  HMronfcacfes,  1886.  45 


At  Covell's,  where  we  remained  over  night,  we 
saw  the  proprietor  shoot,  at  a  remarkably  long 
distance,  a  loon  that  had  unwarily  alighted  in  the 
lake.  We  all  felt  for  the  poor  bird  whose  kinsmen 
we  had  frequently  met  in  remote  parts  of  the 
woods.  We  had  always  respected  their  rights,  and 
never  attempted  to  kill  them.  The  cry  of  the  loon 
is  peculiarly  distinctive  of  remote  portions  of  the 
Adirondack  wilderness.  True,  it  is  annoying, 
whilst  in  pursuit  of  a  deer,  to  suffer  the  loss  of 
game  because  of  the  untimely  alarm  given  by  this 
terrifying  cry  ;  but  nature  has  arranged  that  one 
creature  shall  thus  afford  protection  to  another, 
and  he  can  only  be  a  successful  hunter  who  has 
perfect  knowledge  of  these  wood  matters. 

Remaining  overnight  at  Covell's,  we  passed  on, 
early  the  next  morning,  across  the  lower  part  of 
Upper  Saranac  Lake,  over  a  short  carry  to  Bart- 
lett's,  where  our  first  mail  was  received.  Here 
some  of  our  party  found  trunks  awaiting  them, 
containing  fresh  habiliments. 

Leaving  Bartlett's  we  journeyed  through  Round 
Lake  to  the  Lower  Saranac  and  to  Saranac  village. 
Thence  we  passed  by  stage  to  Lake  Placid,  re- 
maining there  for  a  time,  visiting  the  grave  of 


46  1Tn  tbe  Htnronfcacfes,  1886* 


John  Brown,  and  climbing  Whiteface.  The  effort 
in  Adirondack  climbing,  especially  to  those  unac- 
customed to  the  exercise,  is  considerable  ;  but  the 
summit  once  attained,  one  is  well  rewarded  for  the 
effort.  From  an  altitude  of  nearly  five  thousand 
feet  the  landscape  covers  on  all  sides  a  vast 
territory,  but  the  observer  is  inclined  to  regard 
objects  below  with  a  microscopic  eye,  and  delights 
in  seeking  out  details.  The  large  and  picturesque 
Lake  Placid,  through  which  we  had  passed  and 
which  commanded  our  admiration,  from  the  ele- 
vation of  Whiteface  appeared  as  a  small  pond, 
devoid  of  every  characteristic  of  beauty.  The  view 
toward  Bloomingdale  at  the  north,  and  toward 
North  Elba  and  Keene  at  the  south,  was  a 
delightful  prospect, — fertile  valleys  hemmed  in 
by  rugged  mountains. 

We  also  visited  Au  Sable  Chasm,  and  afterward 
sped  homeward  by  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  rail- 
way, skirting  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  taking 
a  boat  at  Ticonderoga,  and  finally  landing  at 
Albany,  when  the  West  Shore  came  to  our  relief. 

We  reached  our  homes  greatly  recuperated 
from  the  outing. 


\ 

A  CCOMPANIED 

^  V  by  a  sister  and 
her  friend,  we  left  the 
New  York  Central  Sta- 
tion early  one  evening, 
for  a  trip  to  the  centre 
of  the  Adirondack  re- 
gion. The  two  ladies, 
determined  to  enjoy 

the  pleasures  of  lake  and  forest  after  a  manly 
fashion,  were  provided  with  pack-baskets  and 
fly-rods. 

Arriving  in  the  morning  at  Plattsburg,  we 
continued  our  way  by  the  Chateaugay  railroad, 
arriving  at  its  terminus  at  Loon  Lake  in  time  for 
one  of  Paul  Smith's  stages.  Driving  through  a 
magnificent  forest,  where  we  were  overtaken  by  a 
shower,  we  reached  the  resort  known  as  Paul 
Smith's.  We  had  become  conscious  of  the  prox- 
imity of  civilization  some  time  before  arriving  at 

49 


5o  fn  tbe  Hfcironfcacfcs,  1887* 


the  hotel.  Several  cleared  and  well  -  cultivated 
fields  had  intimated  it,  and  a  beautifully-constructed 
log  church  spoke  the  fact  loudly.  The  hotel,  a 
large  and  fashionable  caravansary  on  the  St.  Regis, 
and  delightfully  located  amidst  pine,  spruce,  and 
tamarack,  has  afforded  to  many  an  invalid  a  place 
for  rest,  and  in  some  cases  entire  recuperation. 

We  spent  Sunday  at  Paul  Smith's,  amusing  our- 
selves by  watching  the  church-goers  arriving  from 
more  remote  lakes  in  all  kinds  of  craft.  Guides 
were  engaged  to  take  us  next  morning  to  Covell's, 
on  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  where  our  own  special 
guides  were  expected  to  meet  us.  Starting  early, 
and  passing  through  the  region  known  as  the  Nine 
Carries,  we  arrived  at  Saranac  Inn  for  dinner.  A 
long  row  brought  us  to  Covell's.  Remaining  over 
night  at  this  little  log-cabin,  we  were  gratified  to 
find  not  only  a  hospitable  welcome  and  an  excel- 
lent supper,  but  also  "people  of  refinement.  The 
large  loon  which  the  writer  had  seen  shot  the  sum- 
mer before,  occupied  a  conspicuous  place  in  the 
parlor.  Next  morning  we  crossed  the  Tree-Mile 
Carry  to  Raquette  River,  there  meeting  our  second 
guide.  Our  two  boats  then  started  up  the  river  to 
Big  Tupper  Lake.  The  river  is  a  winding  one, 


flu  the  Hfcironfcacfes,  1887.  53 


with  a  dam  built  long  ago  for  lumbering  purposes. 
The  water  had  overflowed,  killing  the  trees  for 
some  distance  back  from  its  original  banks.  They 
now  stood  mute  and  ghastly,  witnessing  to  the 
avarice  of  man. 

We  somehow  endured  the  long  row  up  Big  Tup- 
per  to  Carey's  where  a  delicious  dinner  of  large 
brook  trout  compensated  us  for  our  weariness. 
Here,  as  well  as  in  the  river,  we  deprecated  the  act 
of  lumbermen  in  damming  the  lake,  felling  the 
marginal  trees,  and  then  allowing  the  water  to  sub- 
side ;  which  results  in  the  destruction  of  many 
beautiful  pines,  and  renders  the  surroundings 
dreary  in  the  extreme. 

Passing  Bog  River  Falls,  we  entered  Bog  River, 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  streams  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks.  Heavy  growths  of  timber  line  the  banks, 
and  along  its  sinuous  course  surprises  of  enchant- 
ing scenery  follow  one  another  in  such  rapid  suc- 
cession that  one  may  readily  believe  himself  in 
fairyland.  Presently,  owing  to  the  rocky  character 
of  the  river,  navigation  even  by  a  small  boat  is 
impracticable  ;  then  comes  the  tedious  Two-Mile 
Carry  to  Round  Pond.  The  trail  traverses  a  pine 
forest,  the  trees  being  of  immense  height  and  girth. 


54  fln  tbe  H&ironfcacfcs,  1887, 


Evidently  the  trail  of  the  lumberman  has  not  yet 
touched  this  region.  Through  Round  Pond,  up  a 
neck  of  water  filled  with  lily-pads,  we  enter  Little 
Tupper.  Then  one  mile's  rowing  lands  us  at  Pliny 
Robbins'.  This  "  hotel  "  consists  of  a  log-cabin  of 
primitive  build,  to  which  has  been  added  a  large, 
loosely-constructed  dwelling  in  the  modern  style. 
The  building  stands  at  the  head  of  a  small  bay,  on 
an  elevated,  sandy  bank,  and  is  surrounded  by  tall 
hemlocks,  which  incline  gracefully  toward  the  lake. 
Just  above  the  hotel  a  long  point  of  land  juts  out 
into  the  lake,  giving  protection  from  the  winds 
which  at  times  prevail.  The  proprietor,*  Mr.  Rob- 
bins,  is  what  is  known  as  a  "  character."  His  tall 
frame  clothed  in  slender  but  compact  muscles,  his 
sun-browned  face,  his  honesty,  his  activity,  endur- 
ance, and  untiring  energy,  all  unite  to  write  him 
down  a  typical  forester.  He  had  kindly  consented 
to  guide  the  ladies  of  our  party,  but  when  we  ar- 
rived he  was  away.  During  his  absence  the  cows 
had  wandered  off,  and  for  two  days  two  employees 
at  the  hotel  had  been  following  their  trail,  return- 
ing at  night,  then  early  in  the  morning  picking  up 
the  trail  again,  in  hope  of  overtaking  them.  Pliny 
returned  late  on  the  second  night  after  our  arrival 


fit  tbe  Hbironfcacfes,  1887,  57 


Obtaining  from  the  boys  all  the  information  possi- 
ble, and  guessing  the  destination  of  the  straying 
animals,  he  started,  tired  though  he  was,  in  pursuit. 
When  we  awoke  next  morning  the  cows  were  com- 
fortably housed  in  the  barn  and  Pliny  was  in  his 
room,  sound  asleep.  His  perfect  knowledge  of  the 
woods  and  his  good  judgment  had  enabled  him, 
not  without  great  effort,  to  accomplish  his  purpose. 
Thoroughly  rested,  Pliny  announced  to  the  young 
ladies  his  willingness  to  fulfil  his  agreement  with 
them.  They  repaired  to  the  outlet  for  the  purpose 
of  fishing;  and  with  Pliny's  skilled  advice  they 
were  enabled  to  obtain  fair  success,  though  they 
received  more  bites  upon  their  persons  (from  the 
flies)  than  upon  their  hooks. 

Leaving  the  ladies  in  the  care  of  Robbins,  we, 
accompanied  by  our  guide,  started  early  in  the 
morning  for  Smith  Lake,  to  enjoy  the  fishing  on 
our  way,  and  to  revisit  the  scenes  of  former  camp 
experiences  there.  We  cast  our  fly  at  various 
spring-holes  in  Little  Tupper  Inlet,  and  met  with 
moderate  success.  Finally  we  arrived  at  a  point 
in  the  stream  where  navigation  was  no  longer 
practicable.  The  guide  was  obliged  to  shoulder 
his  boat,  and  the  sportsman  to  assume  the  burden 


58  1fn  tbe  Htnronfcacfes,  1887* 


of  his  pack-basket,  for  a  three-quarter  mile  tramp 
to  Charley  Pond.  This  small  sheet  of  water  quickly 
passed  over,  we  entered  the  Two  Mile  Carry,  and 
at  length  emerging  from  the  dense  forest,  stood  on 
the  sandy  beach  of  Smith  Lake.  It  was  an 
enchanting  scene,  this  large  body  of  water  spread 
out  before  us,  clothed  by  the  morning  sun  "in 
celestial  sheen,"  a  vast  area  of  green  foliage  sur- 
rounding it.  In  the  distance  Bald  Mountain  reared 
its  lofty  head,  forming  a  fitting  background,  and 
making  this  picture  of  God's  handiwork  complete. 
A  few  miles'  row  brought  us  to  La  Mont's. 
After  dinner  we  started  for  Albany  Lake,  passing 
over  one  of  the  prettiest  carries  of  the  region. 
The  guide  never  having  visited  this  lake,  it  required 
some  study  to  locate  our  old  rendezvous,  Maryland 
Camp.  But  we  found  it  at  length,  and  it  extended 
its  old-time  welcome,  by  giving  us  shelter  from  a 
sudden  heavy  shower.  The  sun  corning  forth 
again,  we  rowed  about,  hoping  to  obtain  a  shot, 
but  returned  to  La  Mont's  empty-handed.  Even 
the  spring-hole^near  the  camp  refused  to  yield  any 
part  of  its  treasures  to  our  seductive  flies.  In  pass- 
ing the  carry  again,  the  guide  called  attention  to 
an  owl  singing  in  the  top  of  a  pine.  We  ridiculed 


•ffn  tbe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1887.  61 

the  idea  of  an  owl  rendering  such  melodious 
sounds.  But  it  was  proved  to  our  satisfaction  that 
when  these  birds  are  in  the  mood,  they  can  indeed 
do  better  things  than  screech  and  hoot. 

Next  morning  we  left  La  Mont's,  fished  for  trout 
near  the  ranch,  and  after  breakfast  returned  to 
Robbins',  having  consumed  the  whole  day  loitering 
on  our  way,  hunting  and  fishing. 

Rounding  the  sharp  point  of  land  above  Rob- 
bins',  the  bright  light  of  the  camp-fire  shone  out  a 
welcome  to  us,  laden  with  trout  and  glory.  The 
trout  were  deposited  in  the  kitchen,  while  we  be- 
took ourselves  with  our  glory  to  bed,  to  seek  much 
needed  rest.  In  the  morning  we  discovered  new- 
comers, one  a  judge  from  New  Orleans,  acquainted 
with  our  family.  This  party  was  the  next  day 
joined  by  friends  from  Auburn,  which  appeared  to 
complete  their  happiness. 

On  the  morrow  deep  trolling  was  the  sport. 
One  of  our  ladies  captured  a  speckled  trout  weigh- 
ing over  two  pounds.  A  guest  had  not  such  good 
luck.  After  playing  for  an  hour  an  imaginary 
trout  of  immense  size,  until  he  exhausted  the 
patience  of  his  guide,  he  finally  discovered  that  his 
hook  had  been  fastened  in  a  submerged  and  water- 


62  1Tn  tbe  HMrontmcfes,  1887, 


soaked  log.  Target  practice,  with  commendable 
accuracy  of  aim  on  the  part  of  the  ladies,  varied 
by  an  occasional  rubber  of  "  old  sledge  "  with  the 
judge,  filled  in  the  day  until  night,  when  it  was 
proposed  that  we  should  try  for  a  deer.  Starting 
down  the  lake  and  entering  the  sinuous  Bog 
Stream,  our  attention  was  called  by  the  guide  to 
the  presence  of  a  deer  standing  at  a  sharp  bend  of 
the  shore.  Much  peering  on  the  part  of  the  sports- 
men, at  length  discovered  two  globes  of  light  and 
fire.  A  quick  shot  was  delivered  and  all  was  still. 
The  creature  must  surely  have  been  struck  in  the 
forehead ;  he  could  not  have  escaped  without  being 
heard  !  But  the  most  careful  search  failed  to  re- 
veal him,  dead  or  alive.  Next  morning,  the  guide 
and  Pliny  Robbins,  long  before  the  guests  were 
up,  made  a  yet  more  careful  examination  with 
dogs  ;  but  all  Mr.  Robbins  would  say  about  it  was 
that  he  "did  not  think  the  deer  was  injured." 
The  shot  probably  passed  over  his  head,  causing 
him  to  crouch,  but  it  was  a  marvel  now  he  suc- 
ceeded in  stealing  off  without  a  sound  reaching 
our  ears,  when  we  were  in  close  proximity,  and  so 
quiet  that  the  movement  of  a  leaf  could  scarcely 
have  escaped  our  attention. 


1Tn  tbe  Efciron&acfes,  1887.  63 


A  heavy  rainfall  made  the  next  day  dreary.  The 
judge's  face  was  long  because  of  repeated  defeats  in 
the  game  of  seven  up.  While  we  sat  at  dinner,  a 
messenger  appeared  from  La  Mont's,  twenty-five 
miles  distant,  asking  for  a  professional  visit.  As  it 
still  rained  hard,  a  conditional  answer  was  given, 
but  at  three  o'clock  the  storm  abated,  so  we  started 
with  the  judge  and  the  guide.  Before  we  reached 
our  destination  we  were  thoroughly  drenched. 
After  performing  the  needed  operation,  we  retired 
in  order  to  awake  early  in  the  morning  for  a  visit 
to  Shingle  Shanty.  Providing  ourselves  with  a 
lunch  consisting  of  jerked  venison  and  crackers, 
we  made  an  early  start,  but  owing  to  the  dense  fog 
we  were  obliged  to  use  a  compass  to  enable  us  to 
arrive  at  the  short  carry  leading  from  the  lake  to 
the  stream.  Although  the  Shingle  Shanty's  banks 
were  overflowing  from  the  long-continued  rain,  we 
returned  with  a  large  supply  of  trout,  which 
the  judge  took  back  with  him  that  afternoon. 
Awaiting  our  guide,  from  Pliny  Robbins,  we  re- 
mained at  La  Mont's  until  the  next  morning,  fish- 
ing before  breakfast  near  the  camp. 

Our  party  at  the  hotel  had  separated,  the  judge 
and  his  friends  going  into  camp  at  Bear  Pond,  and 


64  1fn  tfoe  Hfcironfcacfes,  1887, 


expecting  us  to  join  them  there  later,  to  spend  the 
last  afternoon  and  night  with  them.  Crossing  the 
lake  and  passing  up  a  small  stream,  we  made  a 
short  carry  to  Clear  Pond.  From  the  summit  of  a 
ridge  the  glimmer  of  Bear  Pond  could  be  seen. 
This  pond  has  always  been  noted  for  its  large 
trout,  while  its  remoteness  from  civilization  has 
made  it  famous  forbear  and  deer.  The  camp  was 
situated  on  an  elevated  point  at  the  lower  end,  and 
earlier  in  the  summer  was  the  scene  of  a  distressing 
accident.  A  gentleman  with  his  guide  were  the 
sole  occupants  of  the  camp,  and  while  they  were 
engaged  in  securing  bait,  the  rifle  which  lay  in  the 
bottom  of  the  boat  was  accidently  discharged,  the 
bullet  passing  through  the  gentleman's  thigh  and 
shattering  the  bone.  With  great  fortitude  and 
presence  of  mind  he  quickly  staunched  the  blood, 
repaired  to  camp,  and  waited  until  daylight  before 
despatching  the  guide  for  help.  The  guide  made 
an  exceedingly  rapid  trip  to  Pliny  Robbins',  where 
some  men  were  secured  at  a  fabulous  price  per 
diem,  to  "  cut  out "  the  carry,  and  make  the 
wounded  man's  transportation  easy  ;  then  hurrying 
on  he  engaged  others  at  various  places,  for  specific 
work  ;  doctors  and  nurses  were  telegraphed  for, 


fn  tbe  Hfciron&acfes,  1887.  65 


and  the  injured  man  arrived  at  Bennett's  in  an 
incredibly  short  time. 

We  regained  the  camp  at  Bear  Pond  just  before 
noon.  Preparations  were  being  made  for  dinner. 
Our  guides  were  both  good  cooks  and  gave  valua- 
ble aid  in  the  boiling  and  frying  of  enormous  trout 
that  our  friends  had  caught,  and  soon  an  out-of- 
door  repast  was  offered  to  exceedingly  hungry 
diners.  In  the  afternoon  we  tried  the  trout  with 
both  fly  and  trolling  line,  but  without  marked 
success.  We  inconsiderately  accused  the  judge 
and  his  friend  of  taking  all  the  fish  from  the  pond, 
but  finally  were  brought  to  acknowledge  that  we 
were  more  powerful  in  eating  than  in  capturing 
them. 

The  next  morning  we  had  arranged  for  a  drive 
with  dogs  for  deer,  some  to  be  stationed  at  Clear 
Pond  and  others  at  Bear  Pond.  Leaving  the 
ladies  at  camp,  our  guide  placed  us  at  a  favorable 
point,  where  we  killed  time  by  casting  a  fly,  not 
without  success.  Soon  a  rustling  noise  came  from 
the  woods,  and  almost  immediately  a  deer  was  seen 
in  the  water,  swimming  directly  towards  us.  It 
was  a  fawn,  and  we  decided  to  drive  it  to  camp. 
The  skill  of  the  guide  enabled  him,  by  the  deft 


66  flu  tbe  HMronfcacfes,  1887* 


management  of  his  boat,  to  land  it,  where  its  escape 
was  witnessed  by  all. 

And  now  came  the  time  for  our  pilgrimage 
homeward.  Several  from  Pliny's  were  going  our 
way,  and  the  fleet  of  boats  was  quite  imposing, 
especially  as  the  lake  was  so  rough  that  it  seemed 
the  boats  could  not  live  in  such  troubled  waters. 
The  long  and  difficult  Dead  Man's  Carry  was 
easily  passed  over  by  our  party.  Arriving  at 
Fletcher's  we  took  leave  of  our  guides,  and  em- 
barking on  the  steamer  at  Raquette  Lake,  we  were 
soon  at  the  Blue  Mountain  House,  refreshed 
and  rejuvenated  by  our  month's  outing  in  the 
Adirondacks. 


T  had  been  de- 
cided  upon 
that  four  congenial 
friends,  far  distant 
from  one  another, 
should  join  their 
forces  and  visit  the  northern  regions  of  Canada, 
for  a  brief  relaxation  from  business,  and  for  the 
enjoyment  of  the  woods  hitherto  quite  unfrequented 
by  sportsmen  ;  and  nowhere  else  is  more  superb 
fishing  and  hunting  to  be  found. 

Where  should  we  fix  our  camp  ?  We  chose  a 
point  not  far  removed  from  a  little  village  called 
North  Bay,  which  is  located  on  the  north  shore  of 
Lake  Nipissing,  Ontario.  The  short  time  for 
preparation  was  consumed  in  the  pleasant  task  of 
getting  ready  rifles,  shot-guns,  pack-baskets,  and 
rods  ;  and  ample  provision  of  necessaries  of  camp- 
life  was  not  forgotten.  Then  to  the  woods  away  | 

We  found  ourselves  at  Buffalo,  the  appointed  rally- 

69 


70  1Tn  Ganafca. 


ing-place,  the  next  morning,  refreshed  by  comfort- 
able sleep  in  a  luxurious  berth  of  a  Pullman  car. 
After  an  early  breakfast  and  a  fragrant  Havana  at 
the.  "  Iroquois,"  one  of  our  party  who  had  preceded 
us  announced  himself,  and  we  were  soon  in  full 
possession  of  all  the  plans  and  details  of  our  pro- 
jected trip.  Meeting  another  of  our  party  and 
wondering  at  the  non-arrival  of  the  fourth,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  secure  little  odds  and  ends  of  camp 
utensils,  fishing  -  tackle,  and  articles  of  luxury 
or  comfort. 

Noonday  found  us  at  the  railway  station,  where 
an  excellent  luncheon  was  obtained,  and  after 
leaving  minute  directions  as  to  our  route  for  our 
missing  friend,  we  left  Buffalo  for  Toronto.  A 
hearty  six  o'clock  dinner  at  the  "  Queen's";  and 
after  hearing  part  of  a  play  at  one  of  the  Toronto 
theatres  we  boarded  a  train  at  the  station  of  the 
North  Branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Soon 
were  we  dreaming  of  the  capture  of  enormous  fish, 
of  desperate  conflicts  with  bears ;  while  moose  and 
deer  roamed  through  our  fanciful  brains  in  droves. 
As  we  neared  our  objective  point  the  railway 
passed  through  a  dense  wilderness,  skirting  vast 
lakes  and  crossing  marshy  tracts,  the  only  signs 


flu  Ganafca.  71 


of  life  being  an  occasional  saw-mill  with  its  little 
settlement.  The  immense  quantities  of  freshly- 
piled  lumber  at  these  points  told  a  terrible  tale  of 
destruction  of  the  forests  around. 

Alighting  from  the  Pullman  car  at  early  morn, 
we  found  ourselves  at  North  Bay,  the  end  of  our 
railway  journey.  Here  we  were  cordially  received 
by  a  modest  little  man  who  was  waiting  for  us  at 
the  station.  He  said,  speaking  rapidly,  and  with  a 
slight  French  accent :  "  I  am  Charlie  ;  I  will  do 
your  cooking  ;  you  will  have  good  guides  ;  they 
wait  for  you  with  boats  at  the  head  of  the  lake  ; 
they  have  a  wagon-load  of  provisions  and  all  you 
want."  So,  what  with  the  perfect  day,  and  all  our 
plans  having  so  far  proved  complete,  it  seemed  as 
if  nature  and  man  were  working  together  for 
our  success. 

North  Bay,  a  thrifty  town  of  some  fifteen  hundred 
inhabitants,  is  situated  on  the  east  shore  of  the 
North  Bay  of  Lake  Nipissing,  about  two  hundred 
and  twenty-seven  miles  above  Toronto.  This 
remote  place  derives  some  importance  from  the 
fact  that  it  is  the  terminus  of  the  northern  branch 
of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  with  its  extensive 
repair  shops.  Four  miles  to  the  south  the  Canadian 


72  1fn  Ganafca. 


Pacific  intersects  the  Grand  Trunk  at  Nipissing 
Junction.  Furthermore,  the  village  is  the  centre 
of  immense  lumbering  interests,  and  a  lately  estab- 
lished rendezvous  for  sportsmen. 

Breakfast,  to  which  all  did  ample  justice,  was 
served  at  the  Empire  Hotel,  a  most  excellent 
hostelry.  A  few  final  purchases,  and  we  were 
ready  to  start  for  Trout  Lake,  following  the 
heavily-loaded  provision  wagon,  in  a  two-seated 
buckboard  whose  springs  were  strong,  and  never 
to  be  forgotten.  Three  weary  miles  were  we 
bounced  and  racked,  through  a  district  once  beau- 
tiful perhaps,  but  now  mutilated  by  fire.  The  sole 
suggestion  of  interest  was  an  old  Hudson  Bay  fort 
built  on  a  hill  and  commanding  a  view  of  Lake 
Nipissing.  But  the  head  of  the  lake  was  at  length 
reached,  and  every  man  of  us  gladly  stretched  his 
muscles  in  assisting  at  the  loading  of  the  boats. 

Trout  Lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  .nine 
miles  long,  varying  in  width  from  one  to  two  miles. 
Its  bays  are  numerous, — one  of  them  four  miles  in 
length  ;  and  islands,  large  and  small,  dot  its  surface. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  dense  forest.  On  this  side 
a  sandy  beach  forms  the  shore,  while  yonder  mas- 
sive rocks  rise  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge. 


1Fn  Ganaba.  75 


There  is  a  continuous  water  way  leading  from  the 
lake  to  the  Ottawa  River,  which  before  the  con- 
struction of  the  Canada  Pacific,  was  the  Eastern 
highway  for  this  region.  After  a  row  of  six  miles 
we  reached  Iron  Island.  Here  among  the  rocks 
we  pitched  our  camp,  choosing  the  part  where  a 
growth  of  Canada  spruce,  pines,  and  tamarack 
afforded  good  shade,  as  well  as  protection  from 
the  wind.  Soon  sprang  up  a  small  village  of  tents 
luxuriously  carpeted  with  balsam.  Then,  mindful  of 
those  pests,  the  wood-flies,  we  turned  our  attention 
to  the  building  of  a  large  camp-fire.  Meanwhile, 
Charlie  with  the  aid  of  an  old  stove  left  by  former 
campers,  was  preparing  us  a  substantial  dinner. 
This  repast,  eaten  al  fresco,  amid  the  wholesome 
odors  of  pine  and  balsam,  and  after  our  exhilarat- 
ing journey,  would  doubtless  have  been  keenly  en- 
joyed had  it  been  less  toothsome  than  it  was.  Thus 
fortified  did  we  go  forth  to  try  the  disposition  of 
the  bass.  But  our  luck  was  not  commensurate 
with  our  expectations ;  an  afternoon  of  labor 
yielded  only  four  bass  of  good  size, — which,  how- 
ever, well  furnished  forth  our  supper-table. 

This  lake  and  the  adjoining  one  (Turtle),   fairly 
teem  with  bass  of  nearly  uniform   size,  averaging 


76  "ffn  Canada, 


four  and  three-quarter  pounds.  They  are  caught 
with  bass  flies  and  an  ordinary  fly-rod,  two  fishing 
from  one  boat.  The  guide  rows  near  the  shore, 
in  about  six  to  eight  feet  of  water,  the  sportsman 
having  out  fifty  feet  of  line  and  allowing  the  flies 
to  move  just  beneath  the  surface.  When  a  bass  is 
hooked  the  companion  fisherman  reels  in  his  line 
to  escape  entanglement,  and  whenever  the  fish 
can  be  brought  within  reach,  prepares  to  use  the 
landing-net.  The  "strike"  of  a  large  bass  con- 
veys the  momentary  impression  that  you  have 
hooked  a  log.  Simultaneous  with  the  strike  the 
fish  jumps  out  of  the  water.  If  you  lose  him  then, 
you  go  home  and  say  that  you  lost  a  catch  of  ten 
pounds  at  least.  Otherwise  you  proceed  to 
capture  him.  The  struggle  for  mastery  is  a  des- 
perate one.  The  guide,  with  a  few  strokes  of  the 
oar  rows  out  into  deep  water,  the  fish  seeking  its 
depths  again,  by  his  endeavors  to  escape  causing 
the  pole  to  bend  nearly  double,  and  the  wheel  to 
whir.  A  taut  line  is  kept,  the  sportsman  reeling  it 
upas  the  "fellow"  becomes  more  tractable,  and 
at  no  time  permitting  it  to  slacken.  The  fish  now 
begins  to  sulk.  While  gently  urged  toward  the 
boat,  he  makes  one  or  two  final  summersaults,  and 


1Fn  Canada.  77 

is  finally  captured  with  the  landing-net.  Trout 
Lake  abounds  also  with  pickerel,  lake  trout  and 
muskallonge.  The  pickerel  and  muskallonge  are 
caught  by  trolling,  and  the  lake  trout  by  deep 
trolling  with  a  heavy  sinker. 

July  8. — The  excitement  of  the  day  preceding 
had  a  peculiar  effect  on  two  members  of  the  party 
that  night.  One  persisted  in  dreaming  of  a 
gigantic  bear,  and  shouted  wildly  for  his  gun. 
The  other  assailed  the  condensed  air  of  our  diminu- 
tive sleeping-camp  with  a  sort  of  a  devil's  solo, 
performed  by  the  aid  of  his  olfactory  appendage. 
The  most  pathetic  appeals  and  the  most  cogent 
reasoning  were  equally  unavailing.  Nevertheless 
everybody  awakened  next  morning  in  a  happy 
humor.  The  disturbers  of  the  peace  promised 
reformation,  and  agreed  by  way  of  penance,  to  go 
and  procure  the  bass  for  breakfast,  that  the  sleep- 
less third  of  the  party  might  obtain  repose. 

The  bright  fire  started  by  our  industrious  guides, 
blazing  and  snapping  before  our  camp,  was  a  pro- 
tection from  the  mosquitoes  and  sand-flies,  and 
lured  sleep  by  its  warmth.  After  breakfast  our 
much-abused  companion,  in  a  spirit  of  contrition, 
agreed  to  row  the  man  with  the  rifle  around  Camp 


78  f[n  Canafca. 


Island  and  up  to  the  head  of  Four  Mile  Bay,  for 
the  double  purpose  of  fishing  and  to  ask  a  local 
guide  to  come  and  assist  us  in  hunting.  The 
gentleman  with  the  unmelodious  midnight  cornet 
trailed  along  accompanied  by  his  guide.  Although 
the  wind  was  still  high,  we  hoped  to  take  some 
fish  by  the  way,  and  in  Four  Mile  Bay  we  did  have 
moderate  success.  Arriving  at  the  head  of  the 
bay  we  found  the  house  of  the  guide,  Rancier, 
but  it  could  not  be  reached  without  a  boat,  except- 
ing by  a  wide  detour  through  a  jungle.  So  we 
sent  the  guide  who,  not  finding  any  one  at  home, 
left  a  piece  of  birch  bark,  containing  an  invitation 
to  come  to  our  camp,  fastened  on  the  door  of  the 
cabin.  While  waiting,  our  friend  in  the  other  boat 
had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  a  fine  dear — escape  ! 

July  10. — Two  of  the  party  rose  early  and  went 
to  a  small  bay  to  secure  the  usual  breakfast  of 
bass.  All  the  conditions  for  successful  fishing  were 
favorable.  The  wind  had  fallen,  and  the  water 
surrounding  our  island  was  like  a  huge  sheet  of 
glass.  The  rocks  opposite,  which  had  been  lashed 
furiously  by  the  waves  the  day  before,  were  now  un- 
disturbed. Trout  Lake  was  for  the  first  time  since 
our  arrival  calm.  The  choicest  flies  were  laid  in  the 


1fn  Canafca.  79 


most  favorable  places,  at  the  borders  of  lily-pads. 
Presently  the  loud,  sharp  cry  of  a  frightened  duck 
disturbed  the  hitherto  quiet  spot.  It  was  evident 
that  she  desired  to  attract  attention  to  herself,  even 
at  the  risk  of  her  own  safety,  in  order  to  preserve 
her  young.  But.  we  were  after  bass,  not  ducks,  and 
the  heroic  mother  drew  our  admiration  but  no  shot 
from  our  rifles. 

We  determined  to  spend  the  day  fishing  in 
Turtle  Lake  and  to  hunt  that  night.  An  aged 
Indian  guide  accompanied  us  with  his  birch-bark 
canoe.  The  lake  was  alive  with  good-sized  bass,  of 
which  we  speedily  captured  enough  for  our  needs, 
then  moved  on  to  an  adjoining  lake,  or  more  prop- 
erly bay,  where  we  hoped  to  have  a  sight  of  some 
deer,  and  to  intercept  them  as  they  came  out  of  the 
forest  depths  to  drink.  One  party  went  in  the 
Indian  canoe  to  the  extreme  end  of  the  bay,  but  as 
the  flies  there  seemed  disposed  to  avail  themselves 
of  their  present  opportunities  and  not  wait  for 
deer-flesh,  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  paddle  about. 
So  the  occupants  of  the  canoe  paddled  about  the 
better  part  of  the  afternoon  and  evening.  For 
reward  they  caught  a  glimpse  of  one  solitary  stag, 
and  had  the  pleasure  of  firing  one  ineffectual  shot 


8o  1Tn  Canada. 


at  him.  We  were  partially  consoled  for  our  bad 
luck  by  finding  that  our  tardy  friend,  the  fourth  of 
the  party,  had  arrived,  having  travelled  nearly 
eight  hundred  miles  to  join  us. 

July  ii. — The  morning  passed  in  taking  photo- 
graphs about  camp  and  in  visiting  the  Four  Mile 
Portage.  This  carry  is  of  interest  for  its  romantic 
beauty,  being  shaded  with  immense  trees.  It  is 
fifty  feet  long,  and  affords  easy  communication  be- 
tween Four  Mile  Bay  (which  lies  parallel  with  the 
main  body  of  water)  and  Trout  Lake.  One  of  our 
companions  offered  to  row  us  back  to  the  island. 
He  was  a  genial,  good-natured  fellow,  but  prover- 
bially indisposed  to  any  exertion  whatever,  except 
when  our  excellent  cook  announced  dinner.  This 
sudden  manifestation  of  ambition  was  regarded  as 
the  most  wonderful  event  of  the  trip.  But  a  solu- 
tion of  the  mystery  soon  came.  Our  friend  had 
noticed  that  a  strong  wind  was  blowing  directly 
from  the  portage  to  our  island  nearly  opposite.  All 
that  was  required  of  him  was  to  keep  headed  for 
the  objective  point.  The  wind  propelled  the  boat  I 

That  afternoon  vain  attempts  were  made  to  find 
Hard  Pan  Lake,  where  report  said  good  shooting 
was  to  be  had.  After  following  many  blind  paths 


1Jn  Ganafca,  81 


leading  from  several  ways  we  discovered  the 
remains  of  an  old  beaver  dam.  These  interest- 
ing animals  had  located  themselves  on  a  small 
stream  flowing  into  Trout  Lake.  Only  remnants 
of  the  dam  remained,  but  enough  to  show  the 
marvellous  instinct  these  creatures  possess.  The 
ground  once  covered  by  the  overflowing  water 
must  have  consisted  of  several  acres.  Now,  luxu- 
riantly grown  with  grass,  it  resembles  an  unculti- 
vated meadow.  Surrounding  these  signs  of  former 
life  were  stumps  from  which  small  saplings  had 
been  felled  by  means  of  the  beavers'  sharp  teeth, 
and  quantities  of  poplar  and  willow  sticks  lay  in  the 
meadow,  having  been  sunk  in  the  pond  for  future 
use  as  food.  Many  of  these  sticks  had  stones  of 
considerable  size  resting  on  them  to  keep  them 
submerged. 

Rancier  came  over  in  the  evening  and  helped  us 
improvise  a  jack  for  hunting  at  night.  Our  new 
guide  was  a  youngish  man,  rather  tall,  sun-browned, 
arrayed  in  his  best  garments  and  wearing  a  cow- 
boy hat.  A  taciturn  fellow  and  deliberate  in 
his  movements,  but  what  he  did  was  well  done. 
We  found  him  possessed  of  remarkable  strength 
and  perseverance. 


82  flu  GanaDa, 


The  start  was  finally  made.  Leaving  Iron 
Island  at  five  o'clock,  we  touched  the  mainland  at 
dark,  fastened  our  lantern  in  the  bow  of  the  boat, 
and  proceeded  to  the  mouth  of  Four  Mile  Bay.  A 
bow-man  sat  under  the  light  armed  with  a  rifle. 
The  middle  of  the  boat  was  occupied  by  our  wake- 
ful friend,  who  was  provided  with  a  double-barrelled 
shot-gun  loaded  with  a  heavy  charge  of  powder 
and  buckshot.  The  guide  in  the  stern  used  one 
of  his  oars  for  a  paddle.  We  moved  about  in 
silence,  hugging  the  shore  closely,  but  heard  no 
sound  of  deer.  Suddenly  Rancier  turned  the  boat. 
We  quickly  left  the  mouth  of  Four  Mile  Bay,  and 
passing  the  sharp  point  of  land  separating  the  bay 
from  the  lake,  touched  land  at  an  island  near  by 
and  waited.  The  guide  while  paddling  about  the 
mouth  of  the  Bay  had  heard  a  deer  in  the  woods, 
and  correctly  judged  that  it  would  come  down  to 
the  water  on  the  lake  side ;  hence  the  abrupt 
change  of  position.  His  silent  habit  was  the 
explanation  for  not  communicating  his  acts  to  us. 
We  were  in  the  dark  in  a  double  sense.  Very  soon 
splash,  splash,  was  heard  at  the  point  anticipated 
by  Rancier.  Our  boat  drifted  off,  and  directed  by 
the  sounds  at  the  water's  edge,  we  were  soon 


Un  Ganafca.  83 


enabled  to  make  out  the  outlines  of  a  deer.  The 
crack  of  the  rifle  was  almost  immediately  followed 
by  the  deafening  report  of  the  shot-gun,  the  "  mid- 
dleman "  having  shot  directly  at  the  imaginary 
horns  of  the  deer.  His  admirable  aim  extinguished 
the  light  from  our  lantern.  We  were  now  left  in 
absolute  darkness,  but  the  deer  could  be  heard 
making  his  way  slowly  into  the  woods.  We  remained 
quiet  for  a  time,  then  relighted  our  lantern,  and 
prepared  to  go  in  search  of  our  game.  Landing 
required  some  effort,  owing  to  the  tangle  of  under- 
brush. Though  we  could  hear  the  movements  of  the 
animal,  our  search  proved  fruitless.  We  finally  con- 
cluded to  return  in  the  morning  to  claim  our  prize. 
The  night  was  of  the  darkest  kind  ;  now  and 
then  a  little  rain  fell.  But  our  guide,  from  his  per- 
fect knowledge  of  the  region,  rowed  us  directly 
to  camp,  where  we  found  the  remainder  of  our 
party  wrapped  in  the  most  profound  slumber.  The 
gentleman  with  the  musical  olfactories  was  appar- 
ently rehearsing  in  the  choir  of  his  church,  while 
the  new-comer  joined  in  the  anthem  with  a  fine 
soprano.  The  hunters  were  armed  to  the  teeth, 
however,  and  by  certain  methods  of  intimidation, 
silence  thereafter  reigned  supreme. 

6 


84  Un  Canafca, 


Early  in  the  morning  we  repaired  to  the  scene 
of  our  adventure  of  the  night  before.  We  found 
our  deer,  but  alas  !  it  had  no  horns — to  the  sur- 
prise of  the  man  with  the  shot-gun,  who  vowed  he 
had  aimed  straight  at  them.  Venison  was  served 
at  breakfast,  and  the  gentleman  afflicted  with 
inertia  had  an  uncommonly  good  appetite. 

Deer  are  very  plentiful  in  the  upper  part  of 
Canada.  At  this  season  of  the  year  they  come 
down  to  the  lake-side  late  in  the  afternoon,  during 
the  night,  and  in  the  early  morning,  to  drink,  to 
feed  on  lily-pads  and  tender  grass,  and  to  escape 
from  the  flies.  To  obtain  an  afternoon  shot 
requires  great  skill  on  the  part  of  the  guide.  In 
hunting,  a  light  boat,  preferably  a  canoe,  is  used, 
the  hunter  sitting  in  the  bow,  and  the  guide  in  the 
stern  with  a  paddle.  Deer  are  exceedingly  alert, 
the  slightest  motion  or  sound  will  send  them  off, 
therefore  the  guide  must  learn  to  propel  the  boat 
noiselessly.  But  with  the  wind  blowing  from  the 
land,  an  object  in  the  water  without  motion  or 
sound  will  not,  in  most  instances,  alarm  the  deer. 
After  a  momentary  look  he  will  continue  feeding. 

Jack-shooting  is  a  less  sportsman-like  manner  of 
bagging  the  game,  but  for  the  novice  it  is  very 


1Fn  Ganafca*  87 


exciting.  A  lamp  is  fixed  in  the  bow  of  the  boat, 
and  a  piece  of  birch  bark  is  fastened  behind  it  as 
a  reflector.  The  sportsman  sits  under  the  light, 
which  serves  to  illumine  the  sights  of  his  rifle,  and 
to  throw  an  indefinite  light  ahead.  The  night 
should  be  dark  and  no  wind  stirring.  The  sounds 
in  the  water  at  the  edge  of  the  lake  indicate  to  the 
practised  ear  of  the  guide  the  exact  whereabouts 
of  the  game,  and  it  is  astonishing  how  closely  a 
boat  may  approach  a  feeding  deer  without  giving 
alarm.  It  is  astonishing,  too,  with  what  skill  an 
experienced  guide  will  swiftly  propel  a  boat 
through  the  water  without  splash  or  sound.  The 
attention  of  the  deer  is  directed  to  the  light,  and 
he  will  probably  make  a  start  to  go  into  the  woods. 
But  his  curiosity  is  excited  ;  he  will  stop  and  look 
intently  at  the  strange  object,  until  the  hunter  can 
approach  near  enough  to  discern  his  outlines. 
Then  the  report  of  the  rifle  will  cause  him  to  beat 
a  hasty  retreat.  The  uncertain  light  gives  the  deer 
a  good  chance  to  escape  unhurt,  and  even  if  he  is 
badly  wounded,  he  will  manage  to  get  a  consider- 
able distance  into  the  woods.  There  is  something 
weird  in  hunting  at  night.  The  extreme  blackness, 
the  boat  moving  through  the  water  like  a  spectre, 


88  Un  Canada. 


the  shadowy  outlines  of  banks  as  they  ^now  and 
then  loom  out  of  the  darkness,  the  startling  splash 
of  a  frightened  musk-rat,  the  hooting  of  owls  in 
the  woods  near  by,  the  plaintive  cry  of  a  disturbed 
loon, — -all  these  make  an  impression  not  soon 
forgotten. 

Finally  the  movements  of  a  deer  are  heard  by 
the  experienced  ear  of  the  guide,  first,  perhaps,  on 
land,  then  in  the  water  as  he  moves  from  one  lily- 
pad  to  another.  Instantly  the  course  of  the  boat 
is  felt  to  change,  and  soon  a  dim,  moving  outline 
is  seen.  It  now  depends  on  the  hunter's  coolness 
and  accuracy  of  aim  whether  the  camp-larder  will 
be  replenished,  or  whether  the  deer  will  escape 
unhurt  to  the  depths  of  the  forest. 

July  12. — It  was  decided  to  break  camp  on  this 
day  and  we  folded  our  tents  regretfully.  Charlie's 
stuffed  muskallonge,  baked  in  an  iron  pot  with  a 
tight  lid,  and  buried  for  a  time  in  hot  sand  (the 
refuse  from  the  camp-fire),  will  ever  be  remembered. 
The  cook's  skill  and  abundant  resources  overcame 
all  difficulties  resulting  from  -outdoor  cooking. 
The  abandoned  and  much  dilapidated  stove  was 
made  to  accomplish  the  work  of  a  French  range, 
and  in  consequence  our  venison  was  roasted  to  a 


1fn  Ganafca,  91 


turn,  fish  deliciously  broiled  or  fried,  and  the 
biscuits  and  flapjack's  turned  out  were  like  those 
from  a  Vienna  bakery. 

Ten  o'clock  had  been  appointed  as  the  hour  for 
embarking.  The  aged  Indian  came  to  bid  us  fare- 
well, taking  his  customary  seat  on  the  same  old 
rock,  and  watching  with  interest  the  scene  of 
activity  about  him.  One  hunter  picked  up  a  rifle 
to  demolish  an  empty  bottle  which  had  been  placed 
fifty  yards  distant ;  but,  becoming  mindful  of  the 
day,  he  refrained  from  disturbing  the  quiet  of  a 
beautiful  Sunday  morning.  (Bottles  being  greatly 
in  demand  for  target  practice,  during  our  stay  one 
of  the  party  took  upon  himself  the  function  of 
emptying  them.  It  was  asserted  that  there  never 
was  scarcity  of  targets,  but  this  may  have  been 
due  to  poor  marksmanship.)  The  last  boat  at 
length  loaded,  our  little  flotilla  proceeded  up  the 
lake,  the  aborigine  on  his  knees,  in  his  graceful 
canoe,  bringing  up  the  rear.  It  was  remarked  that 
although  we  had  all  gained  in  avoirdupois,  the  boats 
were  not  nearly  so  much  weighted  as  when  we 
started.  Our  inactive  friend,  who  always  com- 
plained at  meal-time  of  his  impaired  appetite,  was 
voted  guilty  of  annihilating  more  provender  than 


92  fin  Canaba. 


all  the  rest  of  us  combined.  The  unanimity  of  this 
decision  was  complete,  and  it  is  an  open  secret  that 
our  retirement  from  the  island,  and  the  abrupt  con- 
clusion of  our  vacation  at  Trout  Lake  was  due  to 
lack  of  provisions. 

At  the  head  of  the  lake  we  were  met  by  a  car- 
riage and  driven  to  the  hotel,  where  we  made  our- 
selves presentable,  and  soon  appeared  at  the  table 
d ' hote,  to  which  our  hungry  friend  did  ample  justice. 
Boarding  the  train  at  early  evening,  we  journeyed 
together  until  Gravenhurst  was  reached,  where  two 
of  the  party,  having  decided  to  visit  the  Muskoko 
Lake  region,  left  the  train,  and  left  the  rest  to 
speed  homeward.  We  were  sorry  to  separate,  for 
all  admired  the  genial  traits  of  our  "  sleepless " 
companion.  He  had  once  before  visited  the  region 
from  which  we  were  just  returning,  had  enjoyed 
the  moose  and  deer-hunting,  and  the  superb  fishing 
to  be  found  there,  and  it  was  his  pleasure,  on  this 
occasion,  to  afford  all  possible  gratification  to 
others,  practising  the  utmost  self-denial,  wishing 
to  contribute  only  to  the  comfort  and  success  of 
the  party.  He  took  it  as  a  personal  grievance 
that  during  the  first  two  days  of  our  outing  at 
Trout  Lake,  the  conditions  for  successful  bass- 


flu  Canada.  93 


fishing  were  so  unfavorable,  and  we  grumbled 
because  promises  of  "  Ed "  were  not  fulfilled. 
He  chafed  somewhat  over  our  good-natured  sallies, 
but  he  only  said,  "  Wait."  When  at  last  the  bass, 
unable  longer  to  resist  our  flies,  were  caught,  two 
five-pounders  on  one  line,  his  pleasant  face  became 
wreathed  in  smiles,  and  it  was  evident  that  his 
satisfaction  was  at  last  complete.  It  is  a  matter 
worthy  of  record  that  in  fishing  he  always  insisted 
on  taking  the  poor  side  of  the  boat,  the  most 
unlucky  position,  and  it  has  been  already  mentioned 
how  considerately  he  blew  out  the  lamp  with  his 
shot-gun,  thus  further  embarrassing  the  already 
badly-wounded  deer.  At  Gravenhurst,  where  we 
arrived  late  at  night,  everything  was  in  confusion, 
owing  to  the  advent  of  a  large  number  of  Orange- 
men, who  were  to  celebrate  the  following  day. 
The  steamboat  wharf  for  the  Muskoko  Lake 
region  is  one  mile  by  rail  from  Gravenhurst.  The 
finely-appointed  steamer  ploughs  its  way  through 
large  lakes  diversified  by  bays  and  inlets,  and  passes 
through  locks  from  one  lake  to  another.  The 
tourist  has  a  view  of  wooded  shores  and  of  many 
islands  covered  with  dense  growths  of  pine  and 
spruce. 


94  flu  Canada, 


Frequent  stops  were  made  at  attractive  points 
occupied  by  fashionable  hotels,  or  at  an  island  on 
which  had  been  erected  a  summer  home.  From 
many  of  these  cottages  were  flying  the  stars  and 
stripes.  Disembarking  near  the  hotel  situated  at 
the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  we  found  our  own  hos- 
telry, a  pretentious  cottage  located  on  a  promon- 
tory, and  nestled  among  large  growths  of  pine. 
The  owner  was  a  Scotchman  and  a  most  hospitable 
landlord.  At  this  particular  lake  the  fall  hunting 
is  good  and  the  fishing  excellent.  One  party  went 
out  the  first  afternoon  of  our  arrival,  and  returned 
in  two  hours  with  seventy  pounds  of  pickerel,  some 
of  them  of  large  size.  When  homeward  bound  at 
length,  we  left  one  of  our  already  diminished  num- 
ber at  Severn  River,  where  he  expected  to  meet  a 
companion  for  another  week's  fishing.  Proceeding 
on  our  way,  we  arrived  at  Buffalo  in  time  to  secure 
our  mail  and  board  a  train  for  the  East. 


VC   12062 


